Two hills, one long coffee
An independent guide to Zagreb — 27 landmarks, museums, parks, venues and neighborhoods, walked and written up first-hand.
The ones you came for
St Mark's Church
The tiled roof everyone photographs, on a square you can stand in but not linger on.
Dolac Market
Red parasols on a terrace above the main square, and the reason Zagreb calls it the belly of the city.
The Funicular and Lotrščak Tower
Sixty-six seconds on one of the shortest funiculars in the world, and a cannon fired at noon every day since 1877.
Museum of Broken Relationships
Objects donated by strangers, each with the story of the relationship it survived. Far better than it sounds.
Mirogoj Cemetery
Ivy-covered arcades by the architect who rebuilt Zagreb, and every faith in the city buried side by side.
The Stone Gate
The last surviving gate of medieval Gradec, and a working shrine inside a road tunnel.
Zagreb by category
Day-by-day itineraries
Neighborhoods
The essentials
How to get in from all three airports, how the subway and the ferries actually fit together, and the history that explains what you're standing in front of.
From the guide
Eating in Zagreb
Continental Croatia, not the coast — which means pastry, pork, paprika and a cheese dish worth crossing town for.
Getting Around Zagreb
Blue trams, one flat fare, and a centre small enough that you will mostly walk.
How Much Does Zagreb Cost
Cheaper than it was, dearer than it looks in old guidebooks, and the euro changed more than the currency.